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first impressions of the bel paese.
i take Italian class here, an intensive. class doesn’t start for another week or so. I’ve been getting situated, reawakening the dormant native tongue i once wrestled with in my youthful school days…
after speaking to the program director of italiaidea in italian asking whether i could audit the advanced class, he swiftly threw me in the dungeon of the palazzo with the other 7 familiar but stumbling italian speakers. While i can understand almost anything spoken and read, some cats from the teatro argentine seem to have taken my tongue…
i’m finding out that there’s more than one way to spot a tourist. and slowly, i feel myself transmogrifying into a pseudo native. i know now to hold onto my receipt from the bar, to mix my cacio e pepe generously before consuming, what goes in a tramezzino and what goes in a panini, the glorious golden rule that is an etto, to NEVER frequent the napoli rome game, and the various idiomatic practices of a true city dweller. 
the apartment i live in is stone floored. and cold. and large. i live southeast of my college, beyond the tiber river…so my morning walk is about ~20 minutes of brisk exertion. I can see a future for myself…of desperately needing a cobbler. The streets here are so lumpy and pose the greatest threat to beautiful shoes.   



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